January 7, 2011 – Where are the lizards when you need them?

I awoke at 2:30 in the morning to feel things falling on my head and biting me. I squashed what is was but they kept falling. I turned on my headlight to find the screen window above my head covered in ants. So much for a bug proof tent! I got out of bed shined my headlight around to discover that ants were EVERYWHERE! Driver ants. I quickly assessed the situation, threw on my robe, and then stepped outside. My headlamp was fading but I could see ant all along the perimeter of my tent and a meter or two out on both sides. I ran to the main reed hut for relief. As a ran my feet were getting covered in ants. I was also being bitten inside my robe. I am now wrapped in a chitenge (piece of African fabric the women wear) that I found in the hut.

For those of you that don’t know, driver (or soldier) ants are carnivorous and work as a group to bring down their prey. In 2009 at Kasanka me and my researcher friends experienced a group of millions of driver ants come from below ground and take out a wasps next. It was nighttime and the wasps couldn’t fly, they dropped to the ground and were quickly killed and eaten. By the morning the wasps nest no longer existed. I have heard stories of these ants taken down small injured mammals and slowly eating them to death. Fortunately, I don’t think they go after humans on purpose but if they are in your way they give a nasty bite and hold on tight. The most effective way to get them off is to take off your clothes and shake them out. This isn’t very convenient when in the field with a male scout. Instead I have to slowly pick them off.

I suspect my tent was in the way of their warpath and instead of going around they came right through.  am now sitting in my main hut (Nsaka) where I do my work and eat just waiting for them to move on through. I have heard of this happening to people in their homes and Urs a German researcher I was working with had to evacuate his tent in the middle of the night in July 2009.

So how do the lizards play in? I have at least four resident lizards/geckos living in the thatch roof above my tent. Every morning at first light they begin scouring the tent for bugs to eat. They are quite handy and I believe we have a mutualistic relationship. Apparently however they are sleeping OR being eaten by ants.

I still have a few biters in my hair. The other day I was wondering if it would have been a good idea to shave my head because with this continual rain my hair doesn’t dry for hours. These ants are giving me yet another reason why this might be a good idea.

I wonder if the baboons have to deal with these ants or if their fur is too thick and/or they just eat them.

No matter, driver ants ARE a good alarm clock. While I am awake I might as well get some work done.

10 minutes later….now they have invaded the Nsaka! Wow they are efficient. Every cricket in here is now covered in ants and slowly being devoured. The ground inside and out is blanketed with these carnivores. I may have to go hide in the loo!

January 6, 2011 – Close to home

This morning I woke up at just before 5am to get ready to go out with my scout at 5:30. As I was making tea I heard the familiar, affiliative grunting noises of baboons behind me. Sure enough the Fibwe Group has slept 50 meters away just behind my tent. We were unable to locate them last night as the rain did not let up. I suspect they got caught in the rain and had to hunker down where they landed. Lucky for me it was just outside my back door. .

January 5, 2011 – New additions to our group

Today I spent my first morning with the baboons. Despite the rain showers last night they made it to a sleeping site close to camp and we found them before 6am. It was amazing to watch them wake p, groom, romp and play. I stayed back a bit so as not to alarm them. The seemed relaxed and not nervous of my presence. I will take a few days to approach them more closely. I saw two brand new white infants. They look like little balls of pink and white. We have some naming to do over the next few days with two new infants and two new immigrant males.

It is now the afternoon and we are preparing to go out again. Dark clouds are looming on the horizon. When the rain will hit we can’t be sure. I think we will stay a little bit closer to camp today J

January 4th, 2011 – So there really are leopards in Fibwe

Today is my first full day back at Kinda Camp since late October. I arrived yesterday afternoon with just enough time to put sheets on the bed, see the baboons, and have cheese and crackers for dinner.

I arrived by taxi to the Kasanka gate where I had to wait for a Kasanka National Park 4x4 to come pick me and bring me to Kinda Camp. While waiting I met up with one of my scouts, Kingston. He was just pulling out after 10 days of following the baboons. We had lots to chat about but I was only able to get a few updates before my ride arrived. While I was back in the U.S. for my friend’s wedding and my parent’s 40^th wedding anniversary Kingston and George, my scouts, worked diligently, following the baboons daily.

According to Kingston two nights ago one of our subadult males was taken by a leopard. In November a tourist and Kasanka scout also saw a leopard chasing a baboon. So although I had been skeptical, the rumors are true, there is at least one leopard in the area. This is good for the park but not so good for the Fibwe Baboon Group.

Yesterday evening I took a walk to the groups most common sleeping site. Right in the road, in the daylight I caught a civet drinking from a pool of water. The civet didn’t see me. It was the first time I have seen a civet in full daylight and it was astounding. After the civet disappeared into the grass, I moved on and sure enough the group filed in around 18:45 as the sun was setting. According to Kingston and George there are at least two new infants in the group. I failed to see them as the grass is now very tall. I did see baby Robin, the youngest infant in the group when I was here last. She is not so little anymore but still has her distinct natal coat: white body and black head. She was riding on her mother’s back, Lady Godiva.

I awoke this morning to sounds of the bush. It is so amazing to be back. George arrived around 8am. We went out to lo0k for the baboons this afternoon. Welcome to the rainy season. It was clear when we left but by the time we had walked the farthest we planned to go from camp a giant thunderstorm hit us. By the time we reached Kinda Camp we were soaked through. It was fun but I can see it getting old. I did learn something: always wear my rubber boots and stay away from cotton clothing for the next 3 months.